Gunternation

We’re having a good time in Edinburgh. We head back to Dublin tomorrow afternoon. Check back to learn why Chris is so happy about his fish and chips.

Chris arrived safely and is trying to stay awake.

Chenonceau was number one on Andrea’s list to visit because of its impressive location, spanning the River Cher. We set out for Chenonceau around 10:30 Tuesday. The morning was lovely for a drive along the Loire. The section of the Loire we saw reminded me of the Guadalupe, wide with low banks, somehow both quick moving and sleepy. I wonder if you can float trip through the French towns and countryside. Tuesday was free with its sunshine, and the light was beautiful on the river. I could see why France gives birth to so many painters.

Chenonceau is a very popular chateau, definitely the most crowded one we visited. As we parked and moved in the current of people toward the entrance, we all had a similar thought: Disney World. And I suppose it was similar, when you consider that Disney World is excellent at its particular brand of entertainment and experience, and Chenonceau fully convinces you that life can be luxurious and exquisite.

The château built near the village of Chenonceaux in the early 16th century charmed various women loved by several generations of Henri. In 1547, Henri II gave the château to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers, who oversaw construction of a bridge connecting the château to the opposite bank and planted gardens along the river. After King Henry II’s death in 1559, his widow Catherine de Medici (her portrait is pictured) forced Diane to exchange it for the Château Chaumont. As Regent of France, Catherine hosted lavish parties in the new Grand Gallery built over the bridge and in the newly expanded gardens. Upon Catherine’s death, Chenonceau went to Louise de Lorraine-Vaudémont, wife of King Henri III. After Henri died, Louise turned Chanonceau into a house of mourning. (Her bedroom is painted black.) A favorite mistress of Henri IV took possession in 1624, but Chenonceau remained in Louise’s family for the next 100 years.

In the mid-1700s, the Dupin family bought the estate. Madame Dupin entertained many leaders of the Enlightenment, and is credited with saving the château from destruction during the French revolution by highlighting the chateau’s role as a bridge. The château had minor roles in the two world wars: during WWI the gallery was used as a hospital ward; in WW2 the gallery allowed escape from the Nazi occupied zone to the free zone on the opposite bank of the River Cher.

The rooms of the château are large with ornate fireplaces, walls covered in 17th century Belgian and Flemish tapestries and carved or painted patterned ceilings . The turrets create many wonderful nooks with views onto the Cher. My favorite part of the château was the kitchen rooms located in the basement on the river level. The kitchen had its own platform to receive goods directly from boats on the river and featured a stone bread oven, a butchery room and walls covered with brass cookware. The Grand Gallery is truly huge, lined on both sides with windows looking out onto the water. I also liked that each room in Chenonceau had huge bouquets of flowers.

While Chenonceau’s gardens don’t compete with Villandry, they are lovely and provide wonderful atmosphere for the home and grounds. The two rivals for Chenonceau (and Henri II) are each remembered with a garden, Diane de Poitier and Catherine de Medici. I really liked the method of planting beds, interspersing the variety of plants, rather than grouping them into bands or rows. I don’t know if that’s a mark of French gardening, but I saw similar beds in a park in Tours. The gardens’ 130,000 bedding plants are rotated in Spring and Summer. Beyond the gardens are peaceful, sun-dappled woods. Chenonceau also has vegetable gardens and a maze that we did not even see.

Chenonceau was my favorite château. The gardens and grand home along with a gorgeous, sunny day will stay forever in my memory. We stayed at Chenonceau for several hours, eating lunch on the patio (after a long wait in a short line at the cafeteria). We left around 3:00, headed for the next château.

After visiting the chateau in Azay-le-Rideau, we stopped by a sidewalk cafe for shelter from the rain and to drink some warm beverages. Then on to dinner at L’Aigle d’Or, the Golden Eagle, a small, bright restaurant located in a converted house. We had a delicious spring-themed meal, starting with a wonderful velouté de petits pois, fresh pea soup, with smoked chicken.

After our huge feast on Sunday, we all chose fish for our mains, which are not documented in picture or my memory. I do remember I had sesame crusted fish–quite good. Bill also has vague, but positive memories of his fish with tasty sauce and julienned vegetables. I was the only one who couldn’t resist the cheese cart, although everyone was happy to share my choices, including some excellent Gruyere and reblochon. For dessert Kevin had a brownie with ice cream, Bill had a citrus madeleine with strawberry sauce and strawberry compote. Andrea and I both had strawberry sorbet encased in an almond meringue. This was a perfect dessert. The sorbet captured the essence of strawberry and the meringue was tender, not crumbly or dusty. Bill and I had a glass of a local wine with dinner, which was rather sweet, but went surprisingly well with the soup and fish.

Our second destination on Monday was Azay-le-Rideau. It was the first château we actually went inside, as the gardens of Villandry completely overshadow its château. It was also the first château we had trouble finding. We drove into Azay-le-Rideau following the usually very helpful brown tourisme signs. Driving down the main street we saw a sign pointing ahead saying “100m.” The next sign we saw pointed behind us and said “200m.” How do you miss a château? So, we turned around in a round-about and drove back, turning onto the only street between the signs. It led to a parking lot, so we figured we were close to something and parked. We gathered our stuff and walked back to the main street. A pedestrian path next to the parking lot led to the visitor center for the château, so we had figured right.

Construction on the château of Azay-le-Rideau began sometime before 1515. Gilles Berthelot acquired the lordship of Azay through his wife and started constructing a residence according to his own tastes, but it was his wife, Philippe Lesbahy, who directed most of the work. Berthelot would not see the end result of their work, however. Accused of colluding with his friend Semblançay, the Financial Secretary, in embezzlement he was forced to flee the country in 1528. The property was confiscated by King François I and given as a reward to one of his high-ranking soldiers. The property changed hands several times over the following centuries, eventually being acquired by the State in 1905.

The château is constructed on an island in the Indre River, making it appear to rise out of the water. Unfortunately we don’t have any pictures of the interior. We weren’t allowed to take any flash photography and it was overcast outside, so there wasn’t enough light. Otherwise you could see the grand central staircase designed by Mme Lesbahy which is its greatest innovation.

We did, however, capture a duel in progress. The umbrellamen certainly chose a picturesque location to settle their differences.