Gunternation

On the day of our arrival, we had reservations for dinner at the hotel at 7:45. The restaurant offered a la carte, degustation menu (with wine pairings), or a gourmand menu. We chose the gourmand menu which consisted of five courses: appetizer, fish, main, cheese, and dessert. The wine menu was two inches think. We didn’t even open it. We just asked our waiter to bring something that would work with fish and a variety of mains. He brought a lovely, medium Chinon red–smooth and supple with playful but not overwhelming fruit. We had to ask for a few clarifications on the French menu, but were able to order without any huge surprises.

Our meal started with a trio of tastes: a shot of gazpacho, a bite of cheese and a mini bacon tarte. The gazpacho was particularly tasty. We thought the trio was the amuse bouche, but our bouches were to be further amused by rillon (similar to bacon) and caramelized shallots. Our appetizers were generous with an entire slice of stuffed fois gras for Bill and a healthy portion of smoked salmon with salmon mousse for Andrea. I had crab and langoustine (mini lobster) and Kevin had white asparagus and ham-on-a-stick (it sounds more elegant in French).

For our fish course Bill and Kevin had pike, I had sea bass with olives and pine nuts and Andrea had turbot. I didn’t enjoy the Mediterranean preparation of my fish as much as some Asian versions I’ve had. Bill enjoyed his first pike, especially the crispy skin, although his favorite part may have been the fresh spring peas.

Our hosts did not skimp on our main portions either. Andrea and I had veal, Kevin lamb, and Bill pork. The veal was Andrea’s and my favorite course. The morel sauce was delish. I think Kevin’s lamb was also his favorite. Bill preferred his pike over the pork; he found the tenderloin a bit overcooked and the sauce a little salty.

Then came the cheese! We are huge fans of the cheese cart. (I was tempted to roll one out of the restaurant on Tuesday night.) We tried a number of cheeses and found a few new favorites. In particular, Maroilles, a buttery, rich cow cheese. The local chevre was also nice. I was intrigued by a red, cone-shaped cheese. “Ah, Madame! Very Strong!” the waiter said when I pointed to it. I was not deterred. He said he would have to throw away the knife after cutting it and expressed sorrow to my dining companions. I took his advice and tried the scary cheese last. It didn’t stink too much, but it was boldly flavored. For a second I thought it was bubbling on my tongue. It tasted like a strong blue to me. The waiter disagreed with my assessment. “Oh no, blue cheese is good. That is not even cheese!” Turns out the cone cheese, Boulette d’Avesnes, is made from the remnants of Maroilles, which are mixed with spices and typically rolled in paprika. Recent research has revealed that the cheese is known as suppositoire du diable. Yes, that’s the devil’s suppository. Nice.

As with any meal event, we were exhausted by the time dessert arrived. Andrea and I decided to trade our chocolate bombe and orange souffle (but not until I had tasted the bombe, coffee ice cream and vanilla custard–really good). The souffle was warm and airy and huge. I think it was my first souffle and I liked it. Bill also had the bombe with accompaniment. Kevin had strawberry something (details possibly lost to history).

After such a hearty meal, we were dismayed when the waiter brought four shots of passion fruit mousse with orange cookies. We surely gave it a go, and it was lovely, and then our dinner was truly complete.

Our waiter was a lot of fun. We think he was one of the owners of the lovely hotel. We were the last party to leave the dining room that evening. The gourmand menu was €49 per person. So 5+ courses for four, 200 quid with a €26 bottle of wine (not bad!). When you think that burgers and pints for four at a Dub pub can be €80, our meal was wonderfully affordable. It was a great start to our French adventure.

Our first morning in France (Monday), we took a taxi into Tours to pick up our car. After some searching and an enquiry at the Office de Tourisme, we discovered that Europcar is nowhere near their purported location. (They purport to be near the Office de Tourisme, and we were not the first to so enquire.) Following the instructions from the helpful lady de tourisme, we took a bus to a small train station and found the car office, just as it was closing for lunch. In case you were wondering, Andrea can say, “If we hadn’t been led astray by your faulty directions, we would have been here before noon” in French. It had little effect on the madmoiselle with only one hour for lunch.

C’est la vie! Let’s eat lunch! Conveniently, there was a cafe next to the Europcar. By the time we finished lunching on a variety of lunch items, including lots of frites, the office was open and we procured our Renault Clio. With Bill at the wheel and Andrea navigating, we headed West for Villandry.

With Kevin and Andrea in town, we’ve rhapsodized about Austin eateries more than usual. Tonight, Bill made a Dublin version of Kerbey Lane Eggs Francisco. Mighty good grub. No hibiscus tea, however.

Our journey to France started early Sunday morning. Our fears about sleeping through alarms were for naught, as the taxi kindly started calling at 4:15AM. He was a wee bit early. Bill arranged for him to return at 5:15. The Dublin airport is madness at 6AM on Sunday morning, but most of the hubbub was for flights other than ours, and we easily checked in and passed security for our 7:05 departure. We flew to Ryanair’s Parisian outpost, Beauvais, and boarded a bus for the hour ride to Paris. After spotting the Tour Eiffel popping above the skyline, and driving along some wide, leafy streets, we were dropped off at the Metro, which we took to the train station, and waited for our TGV to Tours. We ate tasty sandwiches and some little fried mini-churro type things, and drank Orangina.

After speeding through the French countryside, we disembarked and boarded a little, creaky train into the center of Tours, the coeur de ville. We got a taxi to our hotel, the lovely Chateau de Beaulieu. We were shown to our chambres, and given keys attached to tassels that belonged on the ceremonial dressage harness of the mightiest steed in history. Large tassels, is what I’m saying. We had been traveling almost 12 hours by this time, so I opted for a three-hour nap. After I awoke Bill and I wandered the grounds for a bit. We had reservations for dinner for 7:45 at the hotel. Dinner, of course, is a story unto itself.

[Editor’s Note: We love having visitors!]

As I was walking home from work on Thursday evening, I spotted an attractive couple walking toward me on Watermill Road. Could it be? Yes, it could! (Especially since I had just spoken to Andrea on the mobile and said, hey keep walking up Watermill and I’ll meet ya.) Their first words after our exuberant greetings were, “Where can we buy a cornetto?” We proceeded to the costsaver, and ate our cornettos while walking home through the park. Bill was home soon after, and cooked us a tasty, meat lover’s Irish Breakfast.

Friday the Bockelmans met me for a Carvery lunch near my office, before taking the city bus tour to see Dublin’s Oldest Pub, and Dublin’s Smallest Pub, and the house where James Joyce wrote The Dead (although the tour guide didn’t mention that!) and Phoenix Park and U2’s hotel and the statue of O’Connell. Bill came into town and met Kevin and Andrea at the Liffey and then I hooked up with them for a tapas dinner in Temple Bar.

Saturday we hit the road in the mighty Polo with stops at Ardgillan Castle and Monasterboice. Ardgillan is an 18th century Manor house and gardens that look out on the Irish Sea. The Taylors of Ardgillan would have socialized with the Talbots of Malahide Castle. We toured the house with a charming gentleman who at the end of our tour, overcome by a fit of beleaguered honesty, said that he thought the tour was overpriced and that he felt you could get a better tour at another home! Well, sir, we were quite pleased with our €6.50 tour! Why, at Malahide you’re just listening to a recording. I think there is a lesson here about believing in yourself and having a positive attitude.

Monasterboice was unchanged from our last visit with Peggy in May. I really enjoy visiting the crosses and high tower.